In a professional studio environment where you have complete control over the lighting, it’s essential to build your subject lighting incrementally, with each light source fulfilling a specific purpose. Keeping the camera on a tripod is advisable, allowing you to consistently check the results from the same viewpoint as you adjust the lighting.
Begin in darkness and switch on your main light (whether soft or hard), positioning it optimally. For a single textured surface, such as a fabric sample or weathered boarding, use a hard light source from an oblique angle to highlight the texture and undulations. However, be mindful of uneven lighting across the surface and adjust the light source distance if necessary.
A single hard light might create excessive shadows, making the surface appear uneven. To mitigate this, introduce a fill light, but avoid creating multiple hard shadows that can make the scene appear artificial. Instead, use a diffused light, such as spill light from the main source bounced off a white reflector, to reveal shadow details. Position the reflector near the camera to ensure it directs light into all visible shadows. If more fill light is needed, illuminate the reflector with a separate light source, or switch to a softer main light by diffusing it.
For scenes with a distant background, use a third light source to separate the background from the main subject. Ensure this light does not cast confusing shadows on other areas. When dealing with complex scenes, a large, soft, directional light source can provide modeling without excessive contrast, mimicking natural overcast daylight.
For formal studio portraiture, determine the viewpoint and pose first, then position your main light, paying attention to nose shadow and eye illumination. In three-quarter head shots, decide which side of the face should be lighter. Use a reflector to restore detail in shadows if needed. To emphasize an interesting outline, light the background unevenly, with darker parts of the sitter against the lightest background areas, and vice versa. Lighting backgrounds independently offers greater control.
You can also add a low-powered or distant spot to rim-light hair, shoulders, or hands from behind. However, be cautious of overlighting, which can restrict the sitter’s movement and result in stiff, self-conscious portraits. Simpler, more generalized lighting allows you to focus on expressions and poses more freely.
This incremental approach to lighting is effective with both tungsten and flash sources. Studio-flash modeling lamps provide a clear preview at a comfortable illumination level, changing only in intensity when the flash is fired.
